Magic Metallics

revised 6/2002

Basic Information and Directions for Using Magic Metallic Products

These products have been developed to fill an existing need for more earth-friendly formulas to create “real” metallic, patina and rust finishes on a wide variety of surfaces, i.e. wood, plaster, ceramic, fabric, metal, plastic and paper, etched glass and Plexiglas. The products are all water-based and nontoxic. These products were originally designed as architectural coatings so can be used both indoors and outdoors. Please check out the website - www.magicmetallics.com - to actually see the finishes and to get a more in-depth overview of the company and all of the products. (Close the window to return to this page).

I have a section in the Packets category for packets entirely devoted to Magic Metallics however, I use them a great deal as backgrounds, mats for framing, inlays and trim on many packets in other categories. I have also used them frequently in my articles for PaintWorks magazine. On my web site, I only sell the product in a kit form so if you would like individual products be sure to visit the above mentioned web site.

The Two Most Important Things to Know About the Use of
Magic Metallic Products

Magic Metallics are not paint. All students have to repeat this at least three times for me when I teach a class using Magic Metallics. It doesn't’t go on like paint, it doesn’t act like paint because it isn’t paint. It is a real metal coating.

The metal particles in the Metallic Finishes are heavy and tend to settle in the bottle. They need to be scraped off the bottom, stirred and shaken thoroughly if they have been sitting for any length of time. This is particularly true of the Steel Metallic Finish as it has the heaviest particles. It is a good idea to stir once in awhile while using, also. My mantra is – Stir, stir, stir – shake, shake, shake and I always make students repeat this after me when I am teaching a class!

Bits and Pieces Info:

The biggest difference between Magic Metallic finishes and Faux finishes is that with Magic Metallics you are creating a “real” finish. When you apply Green Patina to the Copper Metallic Finish you don’t have a “Faux Copper Verdigris” you have “Real Copper Verdigris” because the Metallic Finishes are not paint, they are actually crushed metal flakes suspended in an acrylic sealing compound. They will adhere to any surface and cause that surface to look as though it is actually made of that metal. So when Patinas are applied over the Metallic Finishes the metals are actually oxidizing. The exception is Purple Patina, which is a glaze and can be used along with the oxidizing Patinas for a really different and beautiful look. Do you know the difference between the words Patina and Oxidation? Many people don’t so I always explain. Patina is the result of aging – dirt in crevices is a form of patina as is the green colors some metals turn and so is rust. Oxidation is the process that causes the patina. When metals are wet and then exposed to air a chemical reaction takes place causing the metals to erode. With the patinas in the Magic Metallics line, we are just speeding up this process. The Statue of Liberty is perhaps the best known example of patina.

Background: I always work on a dark background as I feel the contrast shows up the metal particles much better and I use the background showing through as part of my overall design. As the metals oxidize they are actually being eaten up and that will allow your background to show through. I think this adds depth to all my creations with Magic Metallics.

Application: The products can be applied with a brush, sponge, rags, plastic wrap, an airbrush or a spray gun. For the airbrush mixture dilute the metal coatings to 2 parts Metallic Finish to 1 part water. Do not use Steel Metallic Finish in any sprayer.

Drying: The Metallic Finishes can be force-dried with a hairdryer if desired. Oxidation occurs when metals are wet and are exposed to air so allow the Patinas to air dry for maximum oxidation to occur.

True to nature finishes: Dark Bronze and Aqua Blue Patina, Copper and Green Patina, Brass and Verde Green Patina. Green and Verde Green Patinas create two different colors of rust on the Steel (keeping everything nontoxic) as well as using Quick Rust which is considered and irritant.

Mixing: All the Metallic Finishes can be mixed with each other to form new metallic colors (try Copper and Dark Bronze or Steel and Gold) Acrylic paint can also be added to the Metallics for a vast array of colors as long as the ratio is kept to no more than 25% acrylic to 75% Metallic Finish. All the Patinas can be mixed with each other (a favorite of mine is Verde Green with Aqua Blue) to form a variety of patinaed finishes.

Brushstrokes: All the Metallic Finishes make beautiful metallic brushstrokes without thinning the product. If you add a Patina to the Metallic Finish first, you can watch the stroke patina as it dries.

Stenciling: I will use a vase as an example. Position your stencil. I like having a dark background to show off the metal particles. Using a triangle shaped make-up sponge, apply Copper to the center of the vase (medium value), pick up Gold on the sponge and pounce in the light side blending into the Copper for a seamless transition. Pick up Dark Bronze and pounce on the dark side of the vase again blending the edges into the Copper. Wait about five minutes and spritz on one Aqua Blue, Green or Verde Green Patina. Spritz on Purple patina here and there allowing it to run into the other patinas. Allow to dry to the tacky stage before removing the stencil. You have just stenciled, highlighted, shaded and oxidized and the result is a real, metal coated, oxidized vase, not a simulation!

Wall treatment: For a bigger project, place puddles of Metallic Finishes out on a large palette, spray on one Patina or spray a couple of different patinas on randomly. With a large sponge pick up metals from different puddles in no particular order, sponge on the wall, adding Metallic Finishes and Patinas to your palette as necessary, keeping no particular pattern. When you are done (it will be very quick work) wash up with soap and water and go have a cup of coffee. Come back and see a beautiful patinaed wall.

Basic Patina Application - This applies to all the metals as they will only do what they would in nature so Copper, Dark Bronze, Gold, Brass will turn green or blue, depending on the metal and Steel will rust:

1. Remember to scrape, stir and shake the Metallic Finishes well before using.

2. Prepare the surface - A good habit to get into is to read over the directions on the individual products before using until you are familiar with each of them. Apply to a clean surface. For wood make sure all sawdust is wiped away, for ceramic and plaster wipe off any cleaning dust, clean old and new metals thoroughly, allow to dry completely and apply proper primers. Note that Interior Matte Sealer is not an all purpose sealer. It provides “tooth” for the Metallic Finishes to adhere to and provides a moisture barrier. When working on a wood surface prepare the wood first with a wood sealer. The Interior Matte Sealer only needs to be applied where the Magic Metallic Finishes will be applied no matter what the surface. If in doubt as to actually where you will end up placing the Metallic Finishes it will not hurt for the Interior Matte Sealer to be applied everywhere.

3. Apply 1 coat of Interior Matte Sealer with a large, flat brush. Let dry or force dry. This provides a good adhesion for the metals and is the first part of the “Magic Metallic sandwich.” This would be the “bread” of the “sandwich.”

4. Apply the first coat of Metallic Finish and allow to dry.

5. Apply the second coat of Metallic Finish and while wet or at least damp, apply one or more colors of Patina by spritzing, sponging flicking, etc. Second part of the “Magic Metallic sandwich”. This would be the “meat.”

6. Note: A little Patina goes a long way! If when dry, you find you got more patina that you wanted just wet a paper towel and gently scrub over the surface and either let it remain on the surface in its thinned form or wipe off the excess with a dry paper towel.

If you really don‘t like the look you have achieved just apply a coat of Interior Matte Sealer, let dry and start all over again or keep layering patinas and metals for a truly unique look (my absolute favorite technique!). This would be the lettuce and tomato of the “Magic Metallic Sandwich”.

7. After allowing patinaed finish to dry for 24 hours, apply another coat of Interior Matte Sealer (the top half of the bread of the “Magic Metallic Sandwich”). The Interior Matte Sealer dries completely matte. Don’t skip this very important step, this protects your patinaed and/or rusted surface. Now, if you desire, you can paint designs on the surface with acrylics, oils, rubber stamps, etc. or apply your varnish of choice.

These are just some of the basic ways in which the Magic Metallics can be used. The possibilities are endless. I use them on furniture, walls, garden items, framing mats, silk flowers, terra cotta to name just a few. I like to paint on the Magic Metallics as a background and with them, too, as I would acrylic paint (even though, of course, they are not paint!). My favorite explanation for this product is “What other product do you know of that you can coat the roof of a shopping center to create patinaed copper and then use that very same product without any alterations, to create fine brushstrokes on paper!”